Because he was there:
"You have to sacrifice a few fingers to get to stand on top of Mount Everest as a double-amputee. So for me it's not a biggie to lose some fingers," he [Mark Inglis] says in a booming voice.
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"The people just want to get to the top," Hillary raged, referring to Inglis and other climbers. "They don't give a damn about anybody else who may be in distress and it doesn't impress me at all that they leave someone lying under a rock to die."
In his day, Hillary added, such behavior would have been inconceivable.
